Saturday, 27 April 2013

Soap on a spoon, and another short prose text: Hands





This is a text I wrote when I was numb, and depressed, and trying to write even though all I wanted to do was eat toast and hate Cambridge. I think it was in those few days before I discovered a bar of soap in my cereal. 

That was the peak of my disorganized and depressed period. I was finally tidying my room, after many dusty days, and I discovered the soap in the cereal. I had eaten cereal in the bath, started crying for no real reason, and decided I would save time by just carrying the soap and cereal downstairs in one go. But then two weeks later the soap and cereal were still there. I hadn't tidied. Or studied. 

Not good.

My friend came into the room, noticed the soap on a spoon. I took a picture. And then we laughed hysterically at the idea of handing someone soap on a spoon, and then running away. I find completely illogical things very funny.

Like this:

Click here for a video of a dwarf and a large lady at a crime scene

Anyway, this text is quite graphic, and cold. But it might still have some value.

Take care, my dear readers,
Yours Cheerlessly,
Sandpiper 






The hands. The bed. The cottage. The middle-aged man. The feeling of cold fabric below a naked body. The feeling of being hopelessly sexy, pitifully thin and degraded.

O. is awake.
khayim, khayim, khayim
O. is awake.
Жива, жива, жива

She shivers against the flowered fabric and the hands rub across her back: warm, but boringly consistent. Regular, smooth, unsatisfactory. Not enough attention to the shoulders. Not enough attention to her ass. If this is going to be sex, then it should be done right. If it’s doing to be a massage, then she shouldn’t be naked.

The light is bright on his cool English morning. Children are walking to a good catholic school past thatched cottages and Anglican copses. A shabby red car is in the drive. The house is full of those political biographies you could read, but never do. They are biased, but the matt finish is attractive.

O. is imaging the moment when she will be taken home, when she exits the car and walks – secretly – through the newly green trees, past the rows of glaring bicycles, to her bedroom. She is regretting that she won’t be paid for this service. Her financial situation is not the best. If she were a prostitute, she would have a story for her grandchildren. But there will still be money when she is dead.

She should be enjoying the present: the feeling of warm, haired hands against her back and the desire-filled stare of a strong man. But she has never really enjoyed the present. She prefers the vague promises of the future.

She guides the man’s hand downwards to her behind and forces him to move harder. She initiates sex.
There are no condoms in this house. O. hesitates, but continues.

The man penetrates too quickly. O. forces him out. She shivers on the bed, covers her nipples (dark, stained, incongruous to white vulnerable skin) with her hands, almost cries and whispers in pain. The man asks if he can continue. O. consents. It is pleasurable for several minutes. The man ejaculates, immediately stops and attempts to kiss our protagonist with ruined tongue. O. pushes the kiss downwards. She peaks, disconnected (dis:pleasured, dis:here, dis:then) – hermitized-  as she forces her body against the hard muscle of the man’s neck. O. puts on her clothes (shirt first), makes skin-deep conversation and steps in the man’s car. O. arrives home. O. walks through the trees, to avoid the glances of a couple, walking hand in hand: her artificial lipstick-slut-hair-visage and her grasp sickly clinging to his bearded neck. He is a dupe. She is a bitch.

 O. returns to her room. O. pretends to study.
O. is still numb, but she is trying. 


Back to Stoffski

Today I rediscovered an old school friend, soul-mate and frenemy for the first time in three years. 



My collection of language books when I was 18: it has since doubled or tripled. 

We met when I was 16. We went to the same secondary school: a co-ed Catholic-Protestant religious sports and academic focused grammar school in the North West of Northern Ireland. We were on the winning team of the Northern Irish French Debating competition (oh, the prestige!) and we both watched ridiculous Spanish cinema. It was beautiful. 

 Like me, he loves languages, with a passion that is hard to control. He loves words. He loves the feeling of forming a past perfect tense of a clunky Dutch verb ('Ja, ik heb het opgegeten!)  full of endearing phlegm (or, voiceless velar fricatives, if we are to be technical). He loves the rush of Slavic constructions twisting his tongue in ways he never could have imagined. He loves that exhilarating feeling when finally - finally!- you can COMMUNICATE. He loves to move to a different country and just feel that tingle when the people around him actually seem to understand and speak the weird code of vocal vibrations that constitutes a foreign tongue. He loves to talk about Ukrainians. Lots of Ukrainians. And Armenians, apparently. 

But I digress. 

We used to talk on the internet until 3am as teenagers, night, after night, after night. Under the now obsolete green charm of MSN. We dreamt, in typed phrases on early morning keyboards, about what we would do when we left school, what boys we would grow to love, what experiences we could have. And complaining naturally, complaining about being born in a corner of the world (North-West Northern Ireland), that is just... bizarre. It can be the most beautiful place. When the sky is setting over Mussenden Temple; when your mother smiles at you in a way you don't quite understand, but you feel all the love rushing out of a heart that can still be pure; and vulnerable (vulnerability and openness never age); when you say something in your home speak ("Awk, she was fer goin' 90 down yon motorway, Gave me a wee heart attack tay be honest, hi.") or when you tell your friend to meet you at the 'Polish' section (assuming all supermarkets must be stocked in pickled gherkins and highly-processed orange juice) and he spends ages looking around the shoe polish aisle.  (These are just a few random thoughts). 


I grew up here, I actually grew up here! 

But it can also be one of the strangest, most suffocating corners of the earth: I don't know whether that is just because it is 'home', or whether it's because it rains every day, or because the people still have some scars of a conflict, puritanism, IRA bombings under their skin, and good oul Ulster Presbyterianism shoved up their behind. Most likely both. 

He moved to London when I was in my last year of school, and, like I told him to his face, he became a bit of a dickhead. A bit of a lot of a dickhead. He used to write me e-mails just to tell me he was SO, SO, SO, SO busy, that he really ought to be living his hopelessly bohemian life. Which, I appreciate as the complete truth (I've gone to uni now and like, all in-denial hipsters I love blogs, hummus and weird Middle Eastern Music), but at the time, I would have appreciated waiting a longer time for one of his messages and then receiving a deep intellectual 3am rant, like we used to have. My insecure, but growing 18 year old self found him quite patronizing about how, like, yeah, London, will just, like, yeah, like totally, like, open up your mind, because like you, can like, meet Colombian-Germans and like, have sex in Soho, and like, wear tweed, and like, yeah. Thus, in the back of my mind, I started to think he was a frenemy. I didn't like his online persona, but I was weirdly, weirdly, weirdly (I still am) attracted to his mind, what he is and what he could (and should!) become: something beautiful. 




Haven't you heard? Being a dickhead's cool! 
"We're having new-aged fun with a vintage feel"
"Say I work in media, I'm really on the dole"
"I organize a vegan crack night!


 In any case, today he returned. The dickishness had evaporated and been replaced by a more tolerant, world open, forgiving and loving view. (Although, probably, if we had spent more time together, we would have got into a heated argument. But, I guess, now, we would have been able to appreciate it, move it aside and look at the sunset.  I would have liked him to stay until the sunset, but he had to rush.)


A hopelessly beautiful sunset at Churchill College, Cambridge

But, the point of this blog, at this point, was to share the main emotion he raised in me: a memory of who I was when I was 18. Confused, ready to leave for university, not sure of who I could be, always self-critical and always, always, always writing. I miss that person. The naïvety (oh, you wouldn't like me calling you naïve, dear 18 year old alter-ego, would you?). The simple open heart.

And those moments, when I first felt that extreme euphoric intellectual-spiritual-new-age HOLY-SACRED-GLORIOUS feeling of being connected to everything around you, of being so heavily in love for the first time (not with my friend, but with a poet. Oh, my stereotypical youth!)  that you are part of everything around you on a tiny improbable planet in the middle of a very odd universe, loving your part in the incomprehensible system of all the linked-connected things around you, wanting everything to just fall into your mouth, and your body to just melt away and become everything around you.

A moment of extreme, beautiful mindfulness.

And, I started to read some of my old work. And I decided to share a description that my 18 year old, madly in love with a poet, self, wrote about this feeling. 



HOLINESS, an extract from a text from when I was 18: 


He threw a lopsided smile which made him look ridiculous; and I laughed until his fingers shook and my stomach felt as if it would eat itself from within.
He was a man so clumsy and so true to himself that he thought he could begin his romanticising of his thoroughly homosexual lover whilst simultaneously making references to female genitalia. It was bizarrely endearing, and, three hours later as I travelled home after the conference, suspended in time and rushing down a roadwork-infested motorway in that ginger revolutionary socialist activist’s thick black car, I could not prevent myself from temporarily forgetting the implications of my lies, and instead laughing under my breath at the memory of Adam’s words.
The next morning after the conference, as dawn streamed into my room, I remembered those words once more and I felt overwhelmed by my admiration for Adam’s glorious frame, his sharp wit and his political agility which stretched past Stonewall and St. Petersburg all the way to the conference halls of Ireland.
Then; it came....
The transitory feeling which he gave me of supernatural brilliance and dizzy falling.
I remember rushing-running past bliss blue candlelit gravestones. I didn’t know what I was doing, but the edge of the horizon was falling below me, the dawn was suspending all in a beautiful blue and the wind was shaking into my ears. Virginities were crashing, men were losing control of their disobedient wives, bankers were speculating with metallic fictional number streams, and I was running, with no cause or reason, sucking in the delicious smells of midnight toast and Adam which were still present on my fingers and across my neck.
It was just a Thursday morning, and that was just a sun rising.
But it was special, and I was falling, insanity-bliss into a single moment and a single desire.
I had awoken alone from a mad sweating stream of consciousness, body still not engaged and practical, but somehow free to movements and dizzied of thought. Hands rising to my white bedroom roof, I had felt free and whored and delicious and possible against those sheets. Mad in the spontaneity of a random morning awakening and a warm desire to move and change the world in a single second.
I had taken my body, unwashed and unwatched from the cold dawning bed and spontaneously walked bare-chested wearing only sandals and long-johns across the early morning town towards the only meadow and grass I could find. It was a silent rabbit-filled cemetery where I had taught myself to cycle years before. It was peaceful and beautiful and full. Full of life, full of madness, full of circumstances and mountain facades: bliss blue sky, bliss blue mountains, bliss blue silk of a paper horizon.
The sun stretched and warmed my neck from behind.
I was falling beautifully, and a ticklish charm rose in my stomach, upwards and beyond.
Just a moment, just a thought, just a euphoria touch on my bare chest.
But it was human in that moment. It was desire. It was nature. It was simple and pure and chemical and free. It was life without deadlines and obligations. Life with no system of governance. Life with no sexuality and restraint. Life undetermined by time and place. Life with no predilections and compasses pointing to Jerusalem.  Life with natural edges. Life licking itself free of wounds and chains and adult-slavery.
Life: just there, just then, just perfect-imperfect, existing, becoming-life! 
I felt connected in that moment.
I felt that I was becoming the rabbits, becoming the trees, becoming the blue, becoming the gravestones, becoming the mountains, becoming my own hands, becoming my own body, becoming love, becoming death, becoming happiness and melancholy and tears, becoming Trotsky, becoming Marx, becoming Slovenia, becoming an anus, becoming a flower, becoming grass-stalks below my feet, becoming it, becoming then, becoming a chain of being, and a soup of being, and a soup of life’s deity, and a soup of moving glittered streams.
I was made of dust, and I would return to dust. Once, then, I would return, after this brief interval of human life. But before, I was lifted through imagination and left dreaming of the amazing possibilities of this wonderful thing we breed between our eyes: drifting magical fantasy past borders, past mountains, past seas, past hopes, past fears, past taxes, past communist rainbows, past contented sleep, past sweated tropics, past the blind cafe in Old Berlin, past Marlene Dietrich and Böll and Brecht, past Katharina’s lost honour, past womanism and purple, past Russia, past the Nile, past Egyptian revolts, past Homebase spanners, past fez-toting lovers, past striking French train drivers, past Irish conference rooms, past discontented Libyans, past cacophony, past distance, past time, past it, past over.... past gone, just present.
Just that cemetery I needed.
A holy moment served to my eyes and my ears, once more kept, now a shining surface in my memory.
A holy moment where I saw all that was beyond my understanding but not beyond my loving.
Holy moments of now-feeling; sometimes Adam gave me those.
They depended on him.
They came from him. 
But those moments would always sink, and realism would always return. I couldn’t feel connected forever. Life couldn’t be beautiful forever.
That was my last day of complete and utter admiration for Adam and the last day before the cracks began.
            That was a holy moment that could not be repeated; which you cannot repeat.
            Before my consciousness could comprehend the change, my chest was already cold and my neck itchy, stones were between my toes, and I was walking home to fall asleep once more in my bed as if that moment, as if that falling, that becoming and that recognition of self had been just another banal circumstance in the chain of normal life.
It had been one month since I had first kissed Adam.
One month when we met almost daily and spoke until four o’clock in the morning over internet interfaces, until my eyes were heavy and my days in school were senseless.
There would be one month more before the end.
One month more to build on my obsession which had been born almost immediately on the day I first saw Adam and Egypt together, synthesised and in unison.
Love or obsession.
I still don’t know.
But they were born of the same womb.
Born of childhood desperation for love and yearning to be kissed for the first time in three years. 
Born of family fears which left me desperate for another strand of life.
Born of self-hate and exterior fears at once.


Friday, 26 April 2013

Mary and Mohammad (or, 5am poetry/prose/stream of consciousness)



INTRODUCTION to my 5am ramble




Early (very early!) this morning I read a poem from one of my newest, and now, dearest friends. Well, I read several stanzas. It was too beautiful. I got overwhelmed, and the night was fading and falling away before me (dawn was coming), and my room was lit in hopelessly perfect mood-lighting, and there was a picture of someone I thought I could have loved on the wall (see previous post: 'This is...') and so I started to write frantically every thought I had in my mind. I remembered  the time I 'took' his virginity on a similar 5am sunrise. I remembered the tenderness.  

Then I took some coffee, and with a cough, a hoarse voice and lots of tears (Don't worry all too much: it's terribly easy to make me cry. My star sign is cancer.) I recorded myself speaking these thoughts/verses/bull. I decided not to censor it at all -- as a testament to the strange, strange, strange things that a 5am mind produces. It's not beautiful, or nicely formed, but it is honest!

Enjoy, my dear friends.
Maybe one day I will take these thoughts, polish them, add some cillit bang, and make something gorgeous.


AUDIO FILE & TRANSCRIPT 







Listen to my ridiculous voice (if the audio manages to upload. It probably won't.) and read the text below at same time, maybe with some quiet music in the background, for example this clip: 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l63o9ryHslA


Boy in the Blanket

You, you, you, you, you
You, you, you, you, you
Took it.

You, you, you, you
You, you, you, you
Took it.

You held it in your mouth,
  And with a word, all the love rushed out,
The bite pressèd to the lips,
The half-shone pain [lemon-stained pain, ash-table-candle-row]

You, you, you, you
You, you, you
Took it.


We could remember the dawn. 
We can always remember the dawn 
(Ha.)

But I want to hide, to lust, to fall, to disconnect from these desires. I want to live in the should. I’ve only ever lived in the should, before. 
And it’s comfortable. I have never let myself live in connection with [my] desires –
 removed from the pressure, the passive glances, of what [they] wanted.


 Let's keep the cogs timed in a pantheon – something for love, something for work, something for posterity. Just enough of every chemical mixed, and everything right. Just right! 


 Enough half-stretched smiles to keep life sustainable for an eternity of unsatisfaction [sic], faked orgasms and the stench of a dissatisfied Hausfrau’s cabbage stew suffocating her children in passive-aggressive love and CHAT MAGAZINE
yes, yes, yes! 



Sensationalist headlines keep us thinking that everyone else
  is mildly less
  happy…
  and considerably more FUCKED UP and EMOTIONALLY DISABLED



THIS IS THE WAY IT’S SUPPOSED TO BE!

OF COURSE IT IS!

Headlines: 
The tumour that almost ATE ME ALIVE!”

“My father raped me with an upside down candlestick and then turned me into a dwarf’s ragged pimp”
“I only lived on a diet of pre-chewed radishes for 14 years”
“My mother is a Bulgarian transvestite!”



THIS IS THE WAY IT’S SUPPOSED TO BE!

OF COURSE IT IS!

Just accept it! 

BULLSHIT. BULLSHIT. BULLSHIT. BULLSHIT. BULLSHIT. BULLSHIT. BULLSHIT. BULLSHIT. BULLSHIT. BULLSHIT.

But. 
  You were more than this,
  [I know you were….] 
  I thought, I hoped, I wanted (oh, fuck, I wanted)
  But now I know not 
  What illusions, mysteries, particles we
Brewed between our eyes.

I have nothing but empty hummus pots.
 I see a printed-paper image of your face, glancing from under an artificially-lit sink, beside some chemical cleaning liquid to clean the shit of my constant disorganisation, papers everywhere full of Soviet bureaucracy to keep the human pacified and the files loved, some out-of-date gherkins in a jar, an aftershave bottle….


and fish pills strewn on the floor.  (Omega 3 to nourish the young and blind the scum!)

Leather shoes, coffee beans, an overflown bin…

  And yes, some forints in my pocket. 

And of course, sometimes, without you, in the melancholic self-conscious act of mutilating my own mind, I see the kitchen knife on a Cambridge desk, and the sweat it builds, and I imagine the narratives of what they would say, and I know it’s ridiculous, but I do it anyway, because  you are a symptom. 

And now, the half-cold, free and frozen, early morning return,

Without you.
But in you,
In you, in you, in you!
I was in you! 
In yours! 
In yours!
And now still alone.

But grateful.

My skin is bare,

And the blanket draped around my shoulders.
I stand defiant, and I remember!
But it's hard to dance with the devil on your back. 


With tears in eyes, and the hot-remnants of blond locks crowning my Jesaic messianic head,
Hair artificially spiked upwards, defiantly, definitely, hopefully, shame-embarrassed hope,
up-
wards.
up-
wards.

There are no doors. I have no keys. 



P.S. JAY BRANNAN 



I also rediscovered one of my favourite blasphemous songs today. It is amazing. Read the lyrics and click on the link in blue! 


Goddamned- Jay Brannan



"Mary and Mohammad are screaming through the clouds

for you to lay your goddamned arms down

rip your bigot roots up from the earth and salt the goddamned ground!"

Sunday, 14 April 2013

BelarusBlog



Минск - город герой! 




As a vaguely bohemian homoflexible Cambridge student, to say ‘I like queers’ is an understatement. They’re my brethren, my friends and my equals. I want to hear their stories: I want to know about their relationships with their parents, their first experiences of love and life, and their fears, hopes and views of the future of our movement home and abroad. I want to meet people who have asked themselves questions about gender and identity, and who live life in a more flexible, less binary way: experiencing without the need to judge. 



Independence Avenue - The main street in Minsk

I also like Eastern Europeans. Take me anywhere on the wrong side of the River Elbe and I’m fascinated. I want to hear old babushki reminisce about the Soviet Union, I want to remember the bread queues, I want to read Trotsky’s speeches, I want to buy pickled gherkins, I want to eat sunflower seeds on a Russian park bench whilst quoting Bulgakov, I want to suck in the Dostoevsky air in the Petersburg White Nights, and I want to walk around the Baltic imaging I’m a Grand Duke of Lithuania. Moreover, having studied Russian for about a year and a half, struggling through aspects, cases, consonant clusters, verbs of motion and constructions of negative potential, I am desperate to improve my language skills as quickly as possible. Especially given the fact that my university degree will soon require me to spend a year in a Russian speaking country. 


Starovilenskaya Street

In December 2012 I contacted my only Russian-speaking friend outside of the U.K., a Slavic beauty called Ala (yes, I was also initially shocked by her name’s similarity to that of the Arabic word for God, but not to worry, the Russian word for ‘Allah’ is different), and asked for a visa invitation to the Republic of Belarus: a country of 9.5 million people, governed by a moustached authoritarian figure called Alexander Lukashenko, who likes to make extremely insightful public statements such as ‘I’d rather be a dictator than gay’, keeps a fairly tight control on the press and lets relics of the Soviet Union flourish such as countless state-controlled institutions and statues of Vladimir Ilych Lenin. Shortly afterwards, I signed up for ‘qguys.ru’: a strange network of Russian, Ukrainian and Belarusian gays who interact by rating each other’s profiles and photos (it wasn’t long before my profile picture was receiving full marks from 50 year old married men from Voronezh), writing each other messages and sending each other ‘virtual presents’. I hoped to meet people who would show me around Minsk, teach me about the intricacies of gay life in Belarus and help me practice my Russian. I soon made regular online contacts and interesting conversations about closed gay clubs, intolerant parents and how to survive the winter in primitive student dormitories ensued. 


Statue of Lenin outside the National Parliament



Riga and arrival in Minsk 


Beautiful, deserted Riga

Finally, after minimal embassy trauma, at the end of March I made my way to Minsk. But first, due to a lack of direct flights between the United Kingdom and Belarus, I had to transfer in Riga: a beautiful, if strangely deserted Baltic port, where a huge Russian community has settled. I began my stay in typically chaotic fashion: my phone was running out of battery, I didn’t speak Latvian (or even Russian that well), my jeans were ripped exposing my übersexy long-johns (I had come prepared for the -12C weather), they wouldn’t let me access my suitcase (it was already being stored in preparation for its transfer to Minsk), and I had to find the correct bus station to meet my couchsurfing host. But somehow it worked out. Soon I was discussing the Latvian lifestyle with a friendly geology student, who gave me a bed, cooked me supper and showed me around the city (where, by the way, I was given a 20 minute lecture at a bus stop by a drunk Russian grandfather about the importance of accepting Jesus Christ into my heart.)  The next afternoon I boarded a tiny propeller plane and flew to Minsk. At the airport I was greeted by a stern-faced worker (the first of many) who directed me to a kiosk where I bought compulsory medical insurance from a friendly old woman (also the first of many). On reaching the arrival hall, I noticed that one key element was missing: my Belarusian friend, Ala. I turned on my laptop, quickly managed to charge my phone and sent her a text message asking where the Mexican Jesús she was. The answer was Vitebsk, i.e. 300 km away. She had got the date wrong. And so, I stepped out into the snow and met a taxi driver, who soon told me off for trying to get into the wrong side of the car (‘Young man, do you want to drive?!) and, with more efficiency than a hero milk maid of the Soviet Union, sucked me dry of all my roubles. 


Hero Milkmaid of the Soviet Union (as seen in a Minsk art gallery) 

I arrived in the youth hostel with a huge suitcase and a complete lack of orientation (due to some bizarre sign regulation, the hostel could only afford a tiny placard near the door). My fellow travellers for the first week would be a group of 40 hormonal teenage boys on a football trip, who covered the hostel in mud, swore in their best russkii mat, and broke all the doors, with the result that taking care of my personal hygiene soon transformed into a rather precarious game of toilet roulette. Nonetheless, the hostel was extremely well located (right in the centre, beside a monument to the Belarusians who died in the Afghanistan war i.e. Belarusian nationalist fuel against the Soviet Union’s imperialist interests), nicely decorated and the friendly staff had the courtesy to leave one room open for regular travellers. Throughout the course of the three weeks I lived in the hostel, the guests included, amongst others: a sole Icelandic tourist with no knowledge of Russian (and therefore minimal chances of survival in a country where only a select few speak any English at all); a Ukrainian body builder with a penchant for scarily-packaged protein shakes; a group of extremely charming little children on a school trip (“Dima, Nastya says she loves you!”); three Russian girls who constantly praised the fine quality of Belarusian meat and dairy (the huge state agricultural subsidies have to be good for something); and a middle-aged Russian drama teacher who enjoyed my company and had several characteristic catch phrases: 



1) “Young man, ask me more questions! We will never meet again and this is your only chance!” 
2) “People in (insert anywhere that isn’t St. Petersburg) don’t speak proper Russian!”
 3) “I’m going to get undressed. Look away!” and 
4) “Drink more gin! But don’t get drunk! Just warm your stomach!”


Belarus National Library

 Oh, and I shouldn’t forget the middle-aged representatives of a Belarusian beer company who came to Minsk on a business trip and promptly got thoroughly shit-faced:  they came into my room after midnight and invited me to come see a prostitute with them (I refused their kind offer). They then set off into the night (luckily leaving a quiet hostel behind them). In the morning their ring-leader, a pleasant, but extremely drunk chubby man, woke me up by shaking me vigorously and shouting “We’re going to be late for our train!”  I responded in my delusional sleepy state with the words ‘Don’t wake me up! I’m Irish!’ (It seemed to make sense at the time).  Then, after engaging in a 2 minute conversation (“You’re really Irish?”, “Does your army still fight the British?”, “Why do you speak Russian?”, “Are there a lot of ‘darkies’ in your country?”), he asked a rather strange question: “How would you react if I were to tell you that I find it very pleasant to talk to you?” to which I responded, in a very British manner, ‘извините, я вас не знаю.’ (“I’m sorry, but I don’t know you”), which resulted in the representatives of the beer company bursting into laughter (‘The Irish guy thinks you’re gay!”). They then vigorously shook my hand, as if we were great friends, and departed for their drunken train ride back to whatever provincial towns they had come from.


View of the Main Train Station

I also discovered that I was often the first foreigner (bar Ukrainians and Russians) that people had exchanged more than a few words with: I was a speciality and was treated as such: with kindness and overwhelming interest. Sometimes I felt like a alien: misunderstood by a lot of people, but loved, none the less. The lack of tourists did have its funny side, though, as embodied by an official tourist guide to the Republic of Belarus which contained such gems as:


View of Minsk from the National Library

1) 'Active rest at highest level. To feel joy of movement shaking off couple of dozens of years. Who would refuse such rare chance?.. Tune yourselves up for hog-wild enthusiasm from the date with heights and flight...movement is life! Get your sip of life from active rest in Belarus!' 

2) ' wonderful lakes shamefacedly hiding in bulrush and fast rivers'

3) ' the fate did not give Belarus a sea, but still the country is called 'blue-eyed'

4) 'Belarusian health resorts represent reasonable combination of price and quallity. Hurry up!' 


Lyosha and his birds 



 During the first two weeks, I fell into a nice routine: in the mornings, I would sleep, listen to Israeli folk (e.g. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yli75B23iIA ) and get my breakfast cooked for me by one of two new friends: P., an extremely intelligent, insightful and welcoming psychology student and A., a formerly-homeless bohemian from Minsk (more about them later). In the afternoon I would walk around the city, discovering new Stalinist gems with every step, and then study Russian in a busting hipster café called ‘zerno’ (I fell in love with their carrot cake. I presume it is environmentally sustainable.). And, naturally, in the evenings I would go on dates with people from qguys.ru (“Главный сайт гей знакомств приветствует тебя! *** 360.000+ гей и би анкет!” > “The main gay site greets you! *** Over 360 000 gay and bi profiles!). One of my most memorable contacts was a 35 year old fruitarian computer programmer called Lyosha, who lives with his mother in a huge apartment complex in the nether regions of Minsk. 


A typical Soviet-style play park: Fun should be for the good of the state! 

My first meeting with Lyosha was completely unexpected. It was a fairly boring day and I received a phone call from an unknown number. I didn’t answer. I find it hard enough to answer phone calls from people I know, let alone from strangers: somehow the act of phoning rather than just simply sending an efficient, emotionless text always makes me think someone is contacting me to tell me something important has happened: a love one has died, a mysterious package has arrived or Nelson Mandela has walked on water. Maybe this is just a combination of two things: 1) a phone culture which differs from that of Belarus (i.e. Prudish Brits and Celts phone each other when something is important, whereas Belarusians seem to phone each other constantly, even for 20 seconds, to communicate the most basic information). 2) I’m just not that popular for phone calls. 
In any case, I was intrigued to see who was calling and I sent a text message along the lines of ‘Dafuq bbz, hu r u? lol xoxoxoxoxox’. 


Apparently these are the apartments where the rich Russian investors live

The response was: ‘It’s Lyosha. Come to Moskovskaya. I’m inviting you over’. I didn’t actually remember ever sending a message to someone called Lyosha, I wasn’t sure how he had my number and Moskovskaya station was 20 minutes away, but I decided to go anyway. I vaguely suspected he might be a 20 year old guy I had been interacting with. In any case, we would be meeting in a public place. 20 minutes later I arrived at Moskovskaya and a frenzy of confused text messages ensued:

“Find bus number 90 and come to my house!” (He then called: I didn’t answer. Phone anxiety…)
“I don’t want to come to your house. Meet me at Moskovskaya!”
“Why don’t you just come to my bus stop?” (He called again. I answered, but didn’t understand anything he said, apart from something about taking bus 90.)
“No. I want you to come to Moskovskaya!” (You have to be assertive with Belarusians.)
“No. Get the bus and get out after 2 stations.”
“Come to Moskovskaya!” 
“Okay. I’ll be there soon.” 


Construction work in Minsk, the city seems to be ever expanding

Eventually, Lyosha arrived. He called me and then beckoned over to me. I realized this was not the person I had expected, but I politely greeted him. He was very handsome with sharp Russian features and looked about 25 years old. I would only find out that he was actually 35 when, sprawled out in a weird seductive pose on his bed, he made me guess his age and started making comments about how ‘well preserved’ he was. We talked for a while. Like quite a lot of Belarusians, he was scarily assertive and direct, but actually very friendly. We got on a bus to his home and he reluctantly made me a fruit cocktail (‘Fruit is very expensive in Belarus!’). He explained how he had recently started to feel extremely ill after having transferred to a completely fruitarian diet. Given that my brother and a few friends are vegan, I have respect for people whose moral compass obliges them to live on well-planned animal-free diets: the important thing is to think about where you will obtain every necessary element of your nutrition and make good steps to ensure that everything is in a harmonised balance. However, Lyosha didn’t seem to have planned his diet at all. In fact, the whole nutritional programme seemed to be based on the basic idea of: ‘Fruit is healthy. I’m going to eat as much of a healthy thing as possible!’. In any case, I tried not to judge and he lapped up my uniformed nutritional tips. Somehow he seemed to believe that as a student of the University of Cambridge, I must be actually intelligent and knowledgeable about everything, rather than, as is really the case, just very specialized in certain aspects of Russian verbs and German passive constructions.    




His bedroom was infested with budgerigars… and I hate birds. Well, I can deal with them at a distance. I recognize their contribution to the circle of life and their function in the universe. But I don’t like anything that makes sudden movements, especially if those movements are above shoulder level. Lyosha seemed to find this incredibly amusing. He chased me around his apartment with a budgerigar in his left hand. I screamed and hid in the toilet. Then, throughout the rest of the time we spent together, he would occasionally pretend like he had a bird in his hand in order to scare me. I found his life interesting and I listened to his stories. He had recently come back from Dubai and his response to my question ‘What is your dream?’ was ‘To live in the tallest building in Dubai. That is my dream. And to love and be loved.’ 



 The only phrases he knew in English seemed to be ‘My name is Aleksei’ (said in an extremely cute accent) and, as the necessity of googling Anglo-Saxon porn obviously required, ‘I want monster cock’. His boyfriend lived several hundred kilometres away in Brest and he repeatedly assured me that he was hopelessly in love, that in the Summer they would move to St. Petersburg together, finally escaping Minsk for the first time, they would earn more money and they would be happy. Somehow, I was sceptical about his future, although I wished him the best. I grew to like him and I honestly told him what I thought about his life. In fact, in this moment I almost miss being chased around his apartment. I miss the almonds on the counter; I miss his direct way of speaking (‘Put your shoes on!’, ‘Get washed!’, ‘Drink your coffee!’); I miss hiding in his bedroom when the neighbours came to visit; I miss travelling at his side in the Matroshka; I miss bleak Belarusian play parks – isolated slides buried under the snow; I miss the fact that, like a lot of people I met, if you asked him a question he didn’t like, he just refused to answer, and I miss his extremely goofy smile. He was a simple, nice man. 


Pancakes & Philosophy


On my third day I met P., a psychology student from Mogilev who studied on a long distance program and had come to Minsk for an intensive two week exam and lecture course. He is the first Russian-speaker I have met who corresponds, if only somewhat, to the stereotype of the Russian thinker; the great Russian soul: a person who analyses the meaning of the world, who asks himself questions, who suffers under the weight of society and dreams further, and further, and further, making progress towards something intangible, but great. I love him: a platonic, beautiful, whole, clean love. We spent countless days together talking about the meaning of things, our experiences of life, philosophy (he had a particular interest in Schopenhauer) and walking around the city. Our moments together were beautiful, and in this instance, I think it is probably best to show restraint, to leave words to float in the air, to twist and spread outwards leaving only fragments of memory: 

1) His smile and the movements of his hands as he explained the pronunciation of the word Lyubov’ (love) (“любовь.... это не совсем «ф» а не совсем «в»”)

2) The pancakes he cooked for me, which sometimes were delicious and sometimes unpleasant, but in either instance full of care.


A notice telling me the internet in the hostel had run out: this happened on a regular basis. 


3) When we listened to ‘muslimgause’ together in the hostel: an alternative ‘British ethnic electronic and experimental musician’ which can be perfect for certain moments and dispositions, but is probably considered heavily disturbing by the majority of people

(Link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mC-g5I-QsH4 ) 

4) The time in Zerno Café when we practiced some English together before P.’s oral examination and a bearded young man with a laptop covered in animal rights stickers felt it was necessary to correct P.’s grammar mistakes, even though we had never met before and, if anyone should correct P.’s endearing errors, it should be the native speaker!

5) And many, many, many more… There are no words. 




And then I met A: a very interesting man. The first day we met we got drunk together. The next day he swore he would never drink or smoke again. I was wary of him at first, because he didn’t speak enough Russian with me (his English was perfect). But soon, given the fact that I was speaking Russian with everyone else apart from him, his English knowledge became a comfort rather than a burden. He told me much about his life. He poured out thousands of memories, incoherently ordered, but sincerely expressed: memories of threesomes with beautiful girls; the time he was an illegal immigrant and homeless in London, eating the leftovers from wasteful supermarkets and sleeping under Spring trees; the time he earned a huge salary working as the manager of an internet café (oh, the days when internet cafes were a thing!); his memories of sailing the world on a cruise liner; the times when  he wasted hundreds of pounds in casinos; the drugs; the rock band…. In a way, he was the perfect cliché of a bohemian experiencing everything life could offer and searching for the best life, but above that, he is a person, living in Minsk, staying in hostels, looking for a job, dating a beautiful and hopelessly elegant Belarusian woman, and wondering what he can make of his life in a country where the mentality and politics differ from that of his London dream. I wish him success. He opened everything to me, and yet I felt a little bit wary of talking openly about my life: he had so much to tell and with certain individuals I have a propensity to listen, rather than share. I wish he knew me better. 


Studying in Cafe Zerno


He took me to the bus station when I left Minsk. It was 7.00am and I had slept less than 3 hours. I was taking a bus to Vilnius, where I would meet a friend from University and then fly home after 2 days. The sun was extremely bright; the snow was melting. Spring had finally arrived. We took a taxi to the station and we drove past places I had barely noticed, whilst an indifferent feeling in my stomach: I needed food, and coffee, and my bus. We queued in the station for crisps: he was acting friendly, overly friendly, like a defence against the pain of departure. I was silent.  As he queued for crisps, I suddenly became overwhelmed with a sickly sensation: and turning to the indifferent strangers, dining upright on high tabes beside impractical pillars, I promptly vomited. Clear, projectile vomit. Maybe it was a complete disconnection from body and emotion, maybe I simply didn’t realize my anxiety, which was building up in my veins, at an important moment, not knowing whether I would ever return to this country, to see again the people I had grown to love. But, probably, it was just the out-of-date kefir I had eaten the night before.


The joys of inflation. Total value: less than £0.10

I boarded the bus to Vilnius (after giving all my rubles to a friendly old woman who told me to pay for my baggage and coincidentally asked for the exact sum of currency I had left), hugged A. and, after discovering that the crisps he had bought me were crab-flavoured (I detest seafood) I promptly fell asleep, disconnecting myself from my memories.  After 3 weeks I was leaving Belarus behind. 

My Twink


My beautiful twink, doing what he does best: looking for hot men in fashion magazines

But of course, a trip to Belarus is never complete without a love affair, or a twink, for that matter. In this instance, the twink is called V.: an 18 year old Lady Gaga fanatic (“she taught me to love myself!”), author and artist, who lives in Minsk with two middle-aged women, who like to smoke all day and eat семечки (sunflower seeds, of the unpeeled variety). We met in an improbable circumstance. But then again, most of my experiences in Minsk are fairly improbable circumstances. I was invited to a chill-out by a 30 year old overweight man from qguys. I accepted and turned up at his apartment at 11pm. I was soon greeted by two eighteen year old boys. I didn’t really understand what they were doing there, or what kind of relationship this friendly, but slightly creepy man was trying to build with them. Nonetheless, it was interesting to share stories with them, in a tiny kitchen, with faint lighting and Russian bread on the table. I told them about my love affairs with Hungarians, my experiences with depression and the advantages and disadvantages of studying in Cambridge. They listened with interest. At 3 am I decided to leave. I left the apartment and climbed down five flights of stairs to be greeted with a scary metal prison door. I didn’t know how to open it. I pressed a button which made a weird buzzing noise: I panicked because I assumed I was activating some kind of panic alarm and I ran back upstairs to the apartment in order to find out how the hell I was supposed to open the door. V. greeted me, smiled, told me how to open the door (I did, in fact, have to press the scary button) and gave me his number. The next day we met up alone in Victory Square: one of my favourite places in Minsk. 


Victory Square, Minsk. The letters read (roughly translated): 'The victory of the people is immortal'


V. told me of his past relationships, of his suicidal thoughts at the end of a certain break up, of his view on sleep (‘It’s a waste of time!’) and of his relationship with his middle-aged roomies: he had met L., a happy, charming and caring woman, at a gay bar in Minsk (back when there was an official gay bar… It has recently been closed by the police). She was on a hen night (apparently it’s not just straight British girls who like to dance with gay men.) and, in a strange coincidence of fate, they decided to chat over a cigarette until the early hours. And then they met up again. And again. And again. Eventually, he moved in with her and they became best friends. Life is full of beautiful, unexpected bonds. 

We went to an underground gay club together where we met an enthusiastic and thoroughly pissed straight girl who insisted that we kiss each other and repeatedly shouted ‘I love you! I love it when gay people kiss! Kiss more!” It was a surreal experience. 


50p cigarettes. No wonder everyone smokes 

After this, V. invited me to stay in their home for a few days. I spent my time in his kitchen, shrouded in smoke (cigarettes cost 50p and most people seem to be addicts), eating sunflower seeds, speaking Russian, drinking too much coffee, watching badly dubbed episodes of ‘Queer as Folk’, reciting the words ‘babushka, babushka, babushka’ (this is my technique to get rid of unwanted erections.) and, of course, kissing my twink. He is beautiful. And a brave man. He reminds me of what I used to be: and there is something glorious in that memory; a naivety and a hope for something new. He is currently attempting to get out of military service (a fate worse than death) by telling the officers that he is openly homosexual. This will probably work, as being gay in the military is unthinkable in Belarus. Nonetheless, they might expose him to a ‘gay test’. Or even worse, tell his parents, who will potentially disown him. Life is not easy in Belarus. The winter is long, the summer is wet, and the gays are hidden. 


A list of stern instructions about what guests in the hostel should and should not do


And yet, things are beautiful. There is life. There is hope. There is potential. There is humanity. And most of all, for me there are memories, which I treasure.

I want to return. I want to lie on V.’s bed, staring at roof, writing poetry and thinking about the meaning of things, but in this moment of life, I don’t know where my heart and head will take me, whom I will grow to love and who I will become.

But in any case, I wish all the beautiful people I met endless success, happiness and much love.

I left my heart in Minsk.  




P.s. If you speak Russian, then this little video montage my twink made for me may be of interest